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There’s a cool clarity to Bryan Conway’s new collection for Tiger of Sweden that is absolutely refreshing. Whereas in the past it has felt like the designer was hesitating at the edge of the diving board, for spring 2025 he dove unhesitatingly into things while also bringing the work closer to home. Consider an irresistible wrinkled suit in a cotton fabric that has some metal in it to retain its well-worn feeling. It is based on the first tailleur Conway made when studying in London. Back then, the designer said, he’d “just got over my Hedi Slimaine for Dior phase and I got out of those skinny jeans I used to wear.” The remit then, as now, is for ease with sophistication. The combination of wool-silk pajama-like pants with a drawstring and a slightly leaner jacket (a general trend this season) feels just right. And the jacket’s exaggeratedly wide lapel is suggestive of both the transitional period Conway had in mind (the ’60s segueing into the ’70s) and that of a boy becoming a man.
It’s better to call David Hockney the motivating spirit rather than inspiration of this collection because Conway was thinking as much about the way the…