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Calvin Klein Collection’s showspace featured the work of pioneering American Minimalist Walter De Maria
This season at Calvin Klein Collection, Veronica Leoni’s impulse was to strip things back. Gone was menswear from the runway for a start, with the Italian designer instead casting her attention to six ‘foundational pieces’ that define Calvin Klein the brand, but also happen to be the elements of most women’s wardrobes. Namely: ‘the coat, the shirt, tailoring, the trouser, the pencil skirt, the slip.’
One inspiration was the work of American Minimalists, whose mid-20th-century principles of reduction were no doubt an influence on Calvin Klein himself (in the late 1980s and early 1990s, the American designer created clothing that was a riposte to the previous decade's excess). ‘American Minimalism was a discipline of removal: take away everything that does not carry the work, until only what is necessary remains,’ said the Italian designer, whose S/S 2027 runway show marked her fourth as creative director.
Walter De Maria, Truth / Beauty (1990–2016)
(Image credit: Courtesy of Calvin Klein)
‘Calvin drew from that and turned it toward the body. I turn it toward the woman inside it,’ she continued. ‘My minimalism begins there, in the relation between design and a body, with nothing in between. Take everything away. What is left…
Calvin Klein Collection by Veronica Leoni Spring 2027 Runway Show Presented in New York City
NEW YORK, September 12, 2026--(BUSINESS WIRE)--Calvin Klein, Inc., part of PVH Corp. [NYSE:PVH], presented yesterday the Calvin Klein Collection Spring 2027 runway show by Creative Director Veronica Leoni at Terminal Warehouse in New York City. The Collection was a continuation of the exploration of American Minimalism.
"American Minimalism was a discipline of removal: take away everything that does not carry the work, until only what is necessary remains," said Veronica Leoni, Creative Director of Calvin Klein Collection. "Calvin drew from that and turned it toward the body. I turn it toward the woman inside it. My minimalism begins there, in the relation between design and a body, with nothing in between. Take everything away. What is left is desire."
The Collection is built from the house's foundational pieces—the coat, the shirt, tailoring, the trouser, the pencil skirt, the slip—with proportions that run longer and narrower, or are cinched at the waist. Tailoring is cut thin and crisp in cotton and lightweight wool: a three-button cotton suit, slim, with the ease of a t-shirt, and a broader-shouldered jacket made to be layered. Slip and t-shirt dresses are cut as full bias evening dresses. Extra-fine silk knit tees…