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Review: Breville Fast Slow Go

Yet in multicooker/electric pressure cooker/Instant Pot years, a lot has changed since late 2016, which was about the time these gadgets started barnstorming our countertops. Most notably, when the Pro came out, there was precious little in the way of reliable cookbooks and recipes, which was partly why I struggled with the original. Back then, manufacturers—Instant Pot, in particular—were surprisingly bad at providing tasty, tested recipes to help people make the most of these new machines. Yet multicookers were new enough that manufacturers needed to provide that help, or at least really should have. (Since stovetop pressure cookers can cook at a higher pressure and temperature, most recipes made for them required adaptation to work in multicookers, which was a bridge too far for newbies.)

Now, however, my shelves boast a whole section for the genre that includes trusted cookbooks written by silver palates like Urvashi Pitre, Melissa Clark, and the team at America's Test Kitchen; we no longer need to lean on recipe help from the companies that make the machines. (The cookbooks do not rely on manufacturer presets like “stew,” “stock,” or “yogurt,” and you'll do much better by following their lead.)

I was excited…