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Paris menswear: ready-to-wear with a couture spirit

January menswear week in Paris has traditionally run just before the city’s haute couture presentations, and the influence of the latter on the former is particularly pointed in the autumn/winter 2023 season.

The couture effect began with Anthony Vaccarello’s breathtakingly polished Saint Laurent collection. It featured models moving glacially through a concrete rotunda designed by architect Tadao Ando in the art foundation Bourse de Commerce. The week closed on Sunday night with a thumping show and shindig in the new headquarters of the John Galliano-helmed Maison Margiela.

In between we had some of the best menswear shows of the season — Jonathan Anderson’s Loewe, where models were dressed as angels or clad in full-metal jackets, painstakingly crafted; Rick Owens’ swirling capes, gloved and cuffed, inspired, he said, by “sleazy ’70s pseudo-mysticism” and Egyptian ceremony (what else?); and Matthew M. Williams’s Givenchy, where the house’s couture technicians handmade the exceptional selection of suits that opened the show.

As a prequel to that Margiela presentation, we paraded through the label’s grand new building, a short distance from the Arc de Triomphe, and past works from Galliano’s July 2022 couture. One grand evening coat looked like 1950s Balenciaga…

Classic menswear is having a comeback

Twice a year, in winter and summer, menswear nerds turn their hungry eyes to Florence, for Pitti Uomo. It is nominally a trade show, but what really matters is not what goes on at shows or in the exhibition halls, but what attendees wear on the street.

I should note, in order to make my editors feel appropriately guilty, that I’ve never been to Pitti. Like most of the unwashed, I visit only through Instagram feeds and magazine websites. This way, at least, I don’t have to obsess about what to wear when venturing out for an espresso.

The photos from this year’s event show that a relaxed classicism has taken hold in men’s style. Pitti is always a safe haven for traditional menswear, but on the street, at least, it feels like less of a separate category now. And the dreaded old-timey approach to tailoring — newsboy caps, twee waistcoats, dapperness generally — is, thankfully, in clear decline.

Instead, tailored clothes are now combined promiscuously with what has come to be known, idiotically, as streetwear. (As opposed to what? Officewear? Do we put on streetwear for the commute to work, and then change?)

Proper jackets and trousers were much…

Tone Shift: 9 Trends from the Fall 2023 Menswear Collections

There was a tone shift this season at the menswear shows. In advance of the collections, I spoke to some of my favorite menswear prophets and experts, looking for a vibe-check. Most of them agreed that the fall 2023 season was going to usher in a return to tailoring, and that the overall mindset would lean into classicality and a renewed outlook on traditional elegance. 

This was true of some of the season’s most-talked about shows: At Saint Laurent, Anthony Vaccarello established an uncompromising symbiotic relationship between his women’s and men’s collections, the decadent glamour of the former informing the latter, while Kim Jones doubled down on his romantic, couture-like vision for menswear at Dior Men with expressive cutting and sumptuous fabrics that set a high bar for the season. Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons presented a collection rooted in traditional silhouettes, re-cut as if to adjust to the modern “man.” And after seasons of playful and defiant Duchampian experimentation at Loewe, Jonathan Anderson presented a palette cleanser, too; formulating an essential wardrobe made of lush silks, leathers, and…metal. 

If the past few years represented a departure from tradition—away from clean-cut tailoring, leather soles, and sartorial…